Wednesday, February 23, 2011

The last left!


This shop lady wanted $16 for 1 banana
Enough to get you going
The mad scientist
Swimming lessons on the agenda today, And ari got sum cool new goggles. As always swimming lessons were awesome!! Ari's teacher Di is incredible, somehow she manages to get all the kids to listen to her ?
 After the pool we hit main beach park, That was cool until ari got weirded out by some little punk, but by then I had seen too much of the swell rolling into main beach so it was time to go anyway. We went cruising up the street and then Ari tripped over, having a bit of a buster. I had to carry her screaming to the car. On the way home I realized that we'd run out of apple black-current icy poles so I had no choice, but to take her to nans.(so I could go surfing)
not high enough dad

That's better

           Unlike yesterday, I had a fair bit of expectation in the waves. We went to the same spot that had produced Toddy's big keg yesty arv. The swell wasn't as big but there were still sum nuggets. My last wave I got was freaky. At first I didn't think I was going to make it to the right take off spot, then, suddenly I was free falling into the pit. As I looked up I copped the curtain in the face and when my eyes cleared, I could see that I was deep inside this pit and for a split second I thought I was gone. But luckily enough I'd carried enough speed through the foam ball to make it out. Yeeeew stoked!!  One wave I will remember for ever.

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