Wednesday, March 9, 2011

Golden Dumplings

In awe of perfection
As I rattled down the highway with my trusty travel mug of nescafe's finest, I wasn't even thinking about the surf. I can't remember what I was thinking of, probably not that much at that stage, half asleep and only about 2 sips of caffine in my system but when I pulled up it was like a slap in the face, bang, I was awake. The surf was going orf!! Absolute perfection! but not just your average beach break waves, these waves were coming in, hitting the sand bank very hard and charging down the line. It looked like Kirra in the mirror. The wind was blowing offshore so I was looking at the best surf that I'd seen at this break in over 15 years! I replaced my travel mug with my phone and was screaming into the thing to try and find someone "to come and see this shit".
In that first hour I don't know how many tubes I got but every wave was an insane throaty, churning, love tunnel. It sorta sucks now though cause I can't remember any one single wave. I just get this one vision from inside the tube, but every time I think of that, it takes my breath away so it's not all bad.
pumping!
After doing a bit of early morning "yoga" to stretch his back, Toddy joined me in the perfection, then after standing on the shore filming for an hour, Tom came out as well. Toddy rode another amazing barrel, thats 2 of his best in 2 weeks go Toddy! We all had the biggest grins on our heads! What a way to start the day!  yew.
holy shit it was good
can't wait to see the video footage
While all this was going on, Jess was getting the girls ready for swimming lessons. I timed it just right, walking in as Ari jumped in the pool. I love swimming lessons, not only watching our kids but seeing all the other gromies there, they crack me up. You really can see their little personalitys in full flight, classic.
The fun pool
Ended up going for a 2nd surf and was pleasantly surprised with the 3ft lefts peeling off the point.
Came home just in time to watch the king, Mr Robert Kelly Slater, kick Taj Burrows butt yet again. They have surfed against each other 24 times with Slats winning 17 of those heats. It's no wonder Taj looked like he was guna cry after the final. Taj was the form surfer of the event and Slater beats him in the final with two 5 point rides?
After being inspired watching my kitchen rules, Jess rustles up some golden syrup dumplings! What a way to finish an incredible day! Can't wait for tomoz! yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew! 
 
Another great big thanks to Tom from Stsurf Images for standing on the beach filming while I had Sesh of the year! Go check out a few more sick shots from today at www.stsurfimages.com   

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