The Brown Monster

my 30yr old ibanez and 30watt roland. Rock on

When I woke up this morning I had no idea that I would be closing the day out with the best tube ride of my life!! But I'll get to that later.

I flew out of bed 100 miles an hour, then I had two coffees, so for the first time ever we were ready early for swimming lessons. Ari didn't have her best day today, she was a bit distracted with having Jess and Isla watching. Although she was highly amusing, it wasn't much fun for Di the teacher. On the other hand Isla was fantastic, she isn't afraid of anything, so she is great at going under the water and doesn't give Jess too much grief in the pool unlike some of the other little cherubs. When we got home I picked up my electric guitar and had an insane jam. I learnt a few audioslave songs, played a few foo fighters favourites and before I knew it I was dripping with sweat feeling like one of the rock gods I'd watched at soundwaves. That didn't last long. I was severely brought back to earth by Jess saying "I think I mite go for a rest now".
I was full of beans so I threw the rug rats around for a bit then headed out to mullaway with Ari and Lisa for a quick dip. Ari went off on the boogie board! She even got smashed and I had to save her but she headed straight back out for more. Go Ari! We went home, I got started on dinner, then bang! I got the call. At first I couldn't understand what Flano was saying, but I knew I had to go and check out what he was looking at. Sure enough, when I got there it all made sense. Out of the blue the swell was up and there were barrels to be had. I got out there paddling around like a headless chook! I sneaked into a few little ones, then this crazy brown monster started doubling up right in front of me, I could tell it was guna be a heavy one and I thought I was way too deep.
I think I only went for it cause I was trying to show off in front of Toddy. As I was about to get to my feet I realized that I was probably guna get slammed into the sand and panicked, but only for a split second. With my jaw clenched tight like a staffy I gave the biggest pump and thought "na f@#$ this, Im guna make it!" I was going so fast inside this thick beast. It made me feel insignificant, and as fast as I was going, the brown monster was swallowing me. I must of tasted pretty bad cause it spat really hard, so hard it blinded me and almost knocked me off but I handled it. My eyes cleared up but still I was deep in the belly, but now I could see an exit. I changed my line and put my foot down, a hundred thoughts racing through my mind. Then it gave its final spit as I came flying out of its belly. I was stunned! The wave exploded around me, completely engulfing me with whitewater but it was more like an embrace of victory from the brown monster. I rode out the front just screaming, standing tall like a warrior. I surfed for another hour but pretty much just paddled round numb.
     The best thing is that the surfs going to be better in the morning. YEEEEEEEEEEEW!!!!!

I dream of these types of forecasts