you idiot

better than average

You would think that after hanging around the ocean for nearly 3O years one would realize that generally there are no 2 days the same. Not me. I was up before the sun, expecting to see the same "one in 15 year waves", barreling down the bank. What an idiot! Of course the swell had dropped, it was still way better than average, but after yesterday it was hard to get motivated. If it had of been cold I would of been back home sitting on the lounge watching Tom Cruise wanna be Carl Stefawotever on the today show, but I decided to go for a paddle and managed to jag a few little kegs and  got home just in time to see Ari off to little school.

cute

and evil

Ari's wicked painting of a "broken crane"

Jess then went to yoga so it was just me and the little terror Isla. Man how different 2 kids can be. Ari is a very obedient and obsessively particular little gem, never interested in going into the cupboards or anything bad like that. Isla on the other hand is into bloody everything! she knows she's not allowed, but just gives the most heart melting, evil, cute grin that you forget what you were rousing on her for. I guess she has us wraped around her little finger?      

hit me hit me

This morning I'd heard reports that the sandy beach boys were out my home break yesty arv taking all the waves. I couldn't let that happen again so all day I was amping for the arvy sesh. I even changed and sanded my fins, and put new stickers on my board. Come 3pm I was ready to go and be a wanker and make sure the sandy boys wouldn't rule again. I rocked up to the beach and there's no one out. Once again I thought to myself " you idiot". The good thing that came from my juvenile, egotistical wanker-ism was that I discovered the right fin combo for my new board and it went great. A few local grommies ended up coming out and they were stoked watching me get all the best waves. Na, jokes! We all took our turn and had a great sesh!
Came home to a very happy family and an awesome feed. Surfed out and stoked!