Sunday, March 13, 2011

SHARK!!

You would think that it was still summer with the fabulous weather over the weekend.
Saturday was pretty cruisy for us. I had some more great surf in the morning at the same insane bank I've been surfing all week. After the surf I put my super husband cape on, done some washing and went to town to do the groceries. Gee Jess is a lucky girl.
Not a bad way to start the weekend
It was manly's first game of the season sat nite so we all donned our manly jumpers and went round to mum's to watch them get beat by arch rivals Melbourne :(
My Manly cheer squad
By sunday lunchtime I had been on a roller coaster ride of different emotions and I was ready to snap. The day started out just like the previous 5 days. I went to go for a surf at my spot and paddled out in the same channel brimming with excitement because the swell was a little bigger, I went under a wave and when I came up I heard a big slap on the water. I looked around to see a f@#$ing shark right next to me!!!!! I could see it's tail fin waving, slashing through the water, lucky it's head was facing away from me. I absolutely shit myself and started paddling away from it as fast as I could. Man I thought I was gone for sure, it was 630am, no one around, just me and this f@#$ing shark. I turned around again and could see this shark going crazy! It looked like there was more than one shark, thats how nuts this thing was going. I could also see that the shark had a massive fish in it's mouth, the fish's head was sticking out of the water and by the look on it's face I was bloody glad that it was the fish and not me. To my good fortune a wave popped up and took me safely to shore but I was rattled!
I stood up on the dune with my sister and a mate, and we could see the shark eating his fish right there in the shore. It drifted along the beach a bit and while we were watching the shark eat it's breakfast I could see these perfect waves peeling off out the back. I decided that the shark obviously didn't want me so I went back out and once I made it safely out the back my sister and Col decided it was safe and they came out too. We all got some insane waves! It was pumping! barrel after barrel. Pretty quickly my fear turned to stoke and I forgot about the man in the grey suit. I surfed for 2.5 hrs and when I came in I was in bliss land.
pretty hard to walk away from this, even with the shark scare
That was until my f@#$ing car decided to shit itself. I started it and it made this horrendous noise and after driving about 50mtrs it died, so I went from the feelings of near death to pure euphoria to raging anger in the space of 3hrs. Man I was pissed!
When I'm that mad I like to vacuum with my head phones on really loud. Todays anger management soundtrack was none other than slipknot. A great band to listen to when your angry.
After my slipknot therapy I was much better and to top it off the Pipe Masters was on t.v.
The rest of the day was great, we took the girls to the beach and then out for dinner.
The chocolate machine copped a hiding after dinner
The swell's coming up some more tmoz so I'll be going for an early, praying that my shark friend is nowhere to be seen. Don't they say you have more chance of being hit by a car than eaten by a shark? I hope so.     

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